Peru - edited highlights

A few highlights from the last few weeks, in no logical order ...

• Staying with a local family in the Llanchon peninsula, Lake Titikaka. They were so friendly and welcoming, took us fishing in a boat that needed baling out continuously, kicked our asses at volleyball and fed us enormous meals largely consisting of batter. In the evening they dressed us up in traditional clothes for a party, and laughed heartily for about 10 minutes at how foolish we looked. Even the ancient abuela enjoyed the joke. I had to wear a jacket, full woolen skirt, long embroidered headscarf, hat with bobbles on, and a heavy shawl, all of which weighed a ton and made for a very hot and bothered Becky, especially as I had my normal clothes on underneath. Chris got a poncho.
• Trekking the Inca Trail. Chris wasn´t feeling too well and every step was an effort, but we completed it in three days. It was a lot of fun playing cards in the evenings with the group and taking the piss out of our guide, who we nicknamed Pinocchio due to his many tall tales. I also have to mention our amazing team of local porters who packed up our camp after we left each day, then ran past us to set up at the next spot. They even brought us tea in bed each morning.
• Speaking of which, going out for english tea and cake to celebrate my birthday in Cuzco. The group gave me some lovely presents and I am sure to delight you all with an out-of-tune pan pipe version of El Condor Pasa in the very near future.
• First sight of Machu Picchu from the sun gate. I was having a bit of a "moment" regarding my advancing middle age and the fact that all the others in our group were much faster than me, but the amazing view made it all better.
• Eating guinea pig. It looked like it had been run over and seemed to consist entirely of skin and fat.
• Playing cricket at the top of the third pass on the Inca Trail, 3800m above sea level, using walking sticks for bat and wicket. Chris´s first ever attempt at the game and he acquitted himself well. The boys also played football against the porters at our first lunch stop (Peru vs The World) and lost quite convicingly.
• Epiphany (?) festival in Puno which seemed to mostly involve carrying little baskets containing plastic dolls representing Mary or Baby Jesus, covered with nylon satin frills and netting, in and out of the church while others danced with handkerchiefs or played the tuba. The next day, outside the church, we found a flourishing market where you could buy clothes, blankets and even little sandals for your Baby Jesus doll.
• Dressing up in different traditional clothes (I got two full woollen skirts, an embroidered blouse and a long headscarf. Chris got a poncho.) and dancing with our host "mother" on Amantani Island, Titikaka. It wasn´t as good as the Llanchon homestay, being a bit more touristic and less friendly, but was still interesting to see how the people live.
• Chris´s Ecuadorian doctor inviting him to join an online dating website.
• Salsa dancing classes at a tourist trap club in Puno. Chris and I were the worst and the teacher despaired of us, but the very strong White Russian cocktails were $4 so we didn´t mind about that for long.
• Visiting the floating islands, Lake Titikaka. Four or five families live on each small square island, which they build from reeds. When the reeds rot, they just put more on top. They build all their houses, furniture and boats out of reeds and even eat them as a refreshing treat. Sadly tourism is very obviously the main source of income now, and it all feels a bit contrived.
• Bringing in the New Year at the only nightclub in Machu Picchu Town. The drinks were strong and a variety of rude shapes were crafted from the balloons that fell from the ceiling at midnight.

We´re in La Paz, Bolivia now, and plan on doing a couple of tours here before heading into Chile or Argentina ...